How Mulches Save You Work and Benefit Your Soil
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- What You Should Know About Organic Materials
- The Differences Between Topsoil and Subsoil
- How To Improve Your Soil
- Inorganic Materials as Helpful Additions
- Recommendations for Lawn Soil
- Facts on Soil Acidity and Alkalinity
- Humus, Composts and Mulches
- How Mulches Save You Work and Benefit Your Soil (this page)
- Fertilizers, Commonly Called Plant Foods
- Merits of Organic and Chemical Fertilizers
- About Foliar Feeding
- Maintaining Your Soil
Any material applied to the surface of the soil as a barrier, to retain moisture in the soil, prevent weed growth, etc., is a mulch. Plastics, roofing paper or insulation fiber will serve. However, natural organic materials are the things most often used; they decompose in time, contributing to soil improvement.
A good mulch should let rain seep through, but be tight and thick enough to smother
sprouting weeds. Usually it is applied four inches thick in shrub, vegetable or flower
beds but it soon packs down to only a few inches. More can be added if bare spots develop
or if weeds start coming through. New lawns require only a loose fraction of an inch of a
fine-textured mulch to allow the grass plants to push their way through.
Organic mulches decay toward their bottom where they meet moist soil. This benefits the
soil through the release of nutrients and materials that help make the soil surface
crumbly and receptive to moisture. The mulch also helps by insulating the soil against
extreme temperature changes and rapid drying.
Heading
One of the handiest sources of mulching material
around the home is lawn clippings. Spread them no more than an inch thick at a time until
they dry. Finished compost is excellent, if you have enough, but it is used better if
worked into your soil. You can purchase any number of materials at the garden store,
including peat, rice hulls, pulverized or ground bark, wood chips, etc.
In some localities tree trimming companies chip up trimmings which you can obtain free for
the hauling. They make an acceptable mulch. Sawdust tends to pack a little tight, so rain
and air cannot penetrate, but after it has partially decayed it is satisfactory. Hay,
straw or similar local materials are useful where their appearance is not considered
unsightly and if weed seeds are not being imported.
Sometimes much of a plant's root system grows just under the mulch, as for example the azalea's. Then one has to be careful not to disrupt the mulch by too much cultivation. In the vegetable and flower garden, the mulch functions during the annual growth period; after that, it can be tilled into the soil, or left on permanently and added to as needed.